January 27-31, 2020 Joshua Tree National Park
January 27, 2020
While we were staying in Tucson for the winter Mike, Carol, Lisa, and I decided to take a mini vacation from our winter vacation and go to Joshua Tree National Park near 29 Palms, California. This was about 340 miles so we made it easily in one day. Mike drove our car with Lisa taking over now and then to relieve Mike from all the driving. As we entered the park from the south entrance we started noticing the occasional Joshua Tree but the further we drove into the park the more trees we saw. It was quite the thrill. In the 1930s Minerva Hoyt, a community activist and desert lover, recognized the threats from humans. She saw beauty in the spiny plants (Joshua Trees) where others did not. She persuaded President Roosevelt to proclaim Joshua Tree National Monument in 1936. In 1994, as part of the California Desert Protection Act, Congress renamed the area Joshua Tree National Park. Thanks to the efforts of Hoyt and others, this park protects 792,510 acres--more than 80% of it managed as wilderness-where the Mojave and Colorado deserts converge.
The Joshua Tree isn't actually a tree but a species of yucca. The plant was first named by Mormon trekkers who said the outstretched limbs reminded them of Joshua reaching his hands to the sky in prayer. It's easy to find the Joshua Trees because of their crooked trunks and misshapen tufts and it can feel like wandering into a Dr Seuss forest. Like other desert plants, its waxy, spiny leaves expose little surface area, efficiently conserving moisture. Joshua trees can grow over 40 feet tall at about an inch a year. Its clusters of cream colored flowers bloom February through April. Unfortunately, we were a little too early this year to see much blooming. Branching occurs after flowering.
I had done some research so was armed as usual with a wealth of information about the area and hiking trails that I thought would be fun. It took us about an hour or more to drive from the south entrance of the park to 29 Palms where we were staying at a hotel. As we drove through the park we stopped to take a few photos but didn't have much time this first day to do anything else very exciting.
The Joshua Tree isn't actually a tree but a species of yucca. The plant was first named by Mormon trekkers who said the outstretched limbs reminded them of Joshua reaching his hands to the sky in prayer. It's easy to find the Joshua Trees because of their crooked trunks and misshapen tufts and it can feel like wandering into a Dr Seuss forest. Like other desert plants, its waxy, spiny leaves expose little surface area, efficiently conserving moisture. Joshua trees can grow over 40 feet tall at about an inch a year. Its clusters of cream colored flowers bloom February through April. Unfortunately, we were a little too early this year to see much blooming. Branching occurs after flowering.
I had done some research so was armed as usual with a wealth of information about the area and hiking trails that I thought would be fun. It took us about an hour or more to drive from the south entrance of the park to 29 Palms where we were staying at a hotel. As we drove through the park we stopped to take a few photos but didn't have much time this first day to do anything else very exciting.
January 28, 2020
Barker Dam was one of the first hikes we went on as it was one of the closest trails to our hotel at 29 Palms. Barker Dam was built around 1900 to hold water for cattle and mining use. The dam today forms a small rain fed reservoir used by park wildlife. The trail circles around the lake and dam with a short rock scramble at the foot of the dam. Minor climbing through narrow rock passages is required. This trail was an easy 1.3 mile trail that took us way over an hour since we stopped constantly to appreciate the views. It was very enjoyable and a good way to start our day!
Next we went to Keys View. This was a short, paved, steep path giving us breathtaking views of the San Andreas Fault, Mt San Jacinto, Mt San Gorgonio, and the Salton Sea.
Next stop was Cap Rock, another easy trail of about .3 mile. This trail was a short loop with lots of boulder piles, Joshua trees, and other desert plants.
Last hike for the day was at Hidden Valley, another easy 1 mile trail. The rock enclosed valley was rumored to have been used by cattle rustlers. On this trail there are some really cool rock formations and petroglyphs. Hidden Valley is popular with rock climbers and while we were there we got to see some rock climbers scaling the rocks.
January 29, 2020
Well we had great plans for today but unfortunately the weather had other plans. It was really windy and there was a weather advisory for the park. Instead, we decided to go to Palm Springs, a town I had always read about and was curious to visit. We weren't impressed with Palm Springs and as one local said, "Palm Springs is for tennis, golf, and country clubs. If you like star gazing, hiking, and music, come to Joshua Tree". Since we weren't interested in Palm Springs we drove to nearby the Salton Sea. The Salton Sea is a land locked body of water with high levels of salt and mineral content. We were forced to turn around because of a sand storm with zero visibility. Looks like for today Mother Nature had other plans for us.
January 30, 2020
We were ready to tackle a few harder hikes so we started the day off with the Desert Queen Mine Trail. Not far from the start we passed an old stone foundation which we stopped to explore. Then we hiked to the top of the canyon with an overlook of the mine. From the overlook we could see the the trail that crossed through the old mine ruins.
Frank L James discovered gold here in 1894. The mine was operational from 1895 until 1961. This gold mine operated profitably for decades. Ownership of the mine was transferred through murder, robbery, bank foreclosure, sale, and payment for back wages. Jim and Bill McHaney took over the mine after one of their cowboys shot James. It was rumored that the mine made more than $100,000. Originally, the Desert Queen Mine contained numerous shafts and tunnels and the mining camp contained housing and office facilities, a stamp mill, winches, and other structures. Today, the only remains include two cyanide tanks, remnants of a cabin, parts of mining machinery, ore tailings and closed mine shafts.
Frank L James discovered gold here in 1894. The mine was operational from 1895 until 1961. This gold mine operated profitably for decades. Ownership of the mine was transferred through murder, robbery, bank foreclosure, sale, and payment for back wages. Jim and Bill McHaney took over the mine after one of their cowboys shot James. It was rumored that the mine made more than $100,000. Originally, the Desert Queen Mine contained numerous shafts and tunnels and the mining camp contained housing and office facilities, a stamp mill, winches, and other structures. Today, the only remains include two cyanide tanks, remnants of a cabin, parts of mining machinery, ore tailings and closed mine shafts.
After the Desert Queen Mine Trail we hiked Skull Rock Trail, a 1.7 mile trail. This trail wasn't necessarily a long trail but lots of opportunity for us to do some rock scrambling. Skull Rock was formed when rain drops accumulated in tiny depressions and started to erode the granite. As more rock eroded more water accumulated, this lead to more erosion until, as time passed, two hollowed out eye sockets formed and the rock began to resemble a skull. The trail ended at Skull rock and we took our time doing some rock scrambling.
Our last hike for the day was Split Rock Loop. Leaving the picnic area, the trail drops down and around a large split rock, then continues in rocky terrain, crosses washes, ascends through boulder fields, and then winds through oak and pine woodland before concluding with washes and Joshua tree woodland. This trail is considered a moderate hike of 2.5 miles with a spur to Face Rock. This boulder is called Face Rock because to many people it looks like the shape of a face. The area is popular with climbers and we were lucky this day to see some scaling the rock wall.
January 31, 2020
Today was our last day at Joshua Tree National Park. We hiked Arch Rock Trail and this ended up being our favorite hike. Some people have compared it to walking on the moon. From the trail, Arch Rock is hardly visible. To get a better view of the arch, we did some easy scrambling beyond the sign pointing to the arch and climbed up to the base of the arch where the views were phenomenal. I had read that straight back from the Arch toward the hills is the famous "heart rock". We were never sure that we had located it but we had lots of fun rock scrambling. We were returning home today.
More Notes
WHERE TO STAY
1. Pioneertown Motel—is popular with the LA and San Diego crowds on the weekends. Situated just behind Pappy + Harriet’s, it’s the perfect place to roll into bed after a rowdy night in Pioneertown’s greatest bar. No phones, no TVs,
2. Mojave Sands—is the most zen like hotel in the area with 3 classic rooms and 2 suites, each with a full kitchen, and one with an outdoor shower and tub.
3. Airbnb—Wakanda Ranch, The High Desert House. Architecture fans might want to look into Pretty Vacant Properties (email [email protected]) two unique desert homes designed by Robert Stone.
4. Mid range and budget hotels can be found in Twentynine Palms. Mid range would be Fairfield Inn and Suites, Holiday Inn Express Hotel and Suites, Best Western Gardens Hotel. Budget hotels would be Rodeway Inn and Suites, and the 9 Palms Inn.
PLACES TO EAT
Yucca Valley:
Kimi Grill—Japanese Food
Asian Buffet—Chinese Buffet
Las Palmas—Mexican
La Copine—desert chic restaurant, unique menu, make reservations
Joshua Tree:
Park Rock Café (next to visitor’s center)
Joshua Tree Farmer’s Market on Saturdays for local dates, citrus, honey, vegetables
Natural Sister-- Good Health Food
Crossroads Café and Tavern: Homemade food, good breakfast
Joshua Tree Saloon (Food, bar, bands/karaoke)
Pie for the People—Great Pizza
Royal Siam Cuisine—Thai food
Sam’s Indian Food
Pioneertown:
Pappy & Harriet’s—Great casual dining and bands on some evenings. Steaks, burgers, dogs, and Tex Mex for lunch and dinner Thursday through Sunday. Mondays are open mic night with dinner service only. Dinner reservations recommended on Friday and Saturday night.
VISITOR CENTERS
Cottonwood Visitor Center—Coming from Tucson enter at south entrance. Mastadon Loop Trail is nearby.
Oasis Visitor Center—Enter the park from the North.
Joshua Tree Visitor Center—Enter the park from the West.
THINGS TO DO
Noah Purifoy Outdoor Museum: If you like outdoor earthy art this outdoor art museum is just about 10 minutes from Joshua Tree Visitor Center. http://noahpurifoy.com
Pioneertown: 10 miles from Joshua Tree Visitor Center. Developed by Roy Rogers as a Wild West film set in the 1940s, more than 50 westerns were filmed here. The Old West facades are fun to explore and next door is the famous Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace which is both a great restaurant and a world class music venue. Paul McCartney, Future Islands, Robert Plant and more have performed on this tiny saloon stage. http://pappyandharriets.com
Big Morongo Canyon Preserve: 20-30 minutes away in Morongo Valley
http://bigmorongo.org
Skys the Limit Observatory and Nature Center: Every Saturday night at 10 pm with the exception of weekends on or near a full moon astronomers set up telescopes outside the observatory and invite the public to get up close and personal with the night sky for desert stargazing.
Crochet Museum: The museum is free and open 24/7 so visitors can stop by anytime. It is a lime green one hour photo booth repurposed to house a collection of hundreds of crochet stuffed animals. (Only in Joshua Tree!)
Sound Baths: If you want to fully immerse yourself in Joshua Tree’s quirky side book at Sound Bath at the Integratron. Billed as 60 minute sonic healings, visitors recline in the dome shaped wooden room and are bathed in the smell of burning palo santo and the harmonic sounds of quartz crystal bowls. The two story bright white dome was designed by a UFOlogist named George Van Tassel who claimed to receive his instructions via extraterrestrials from the planet, Venus. Decades after Van Tassel died, the Integratron was purchased by three sisters who declared the all wood interior acoustically perfect and began hosting Sound Baths in the early 2000s. If it sounds far out, it is. Today you can choose between private or public Sound Baths. Spots book up months in advance.
Key’s Ranch Guide Walking Tour: Listed as a National Historic Register Site the property is located in a remote rocky Canyon in Joshua Tree National Park. To preserve its historic character admission to the ranch is restricted to guided walking tours, half mile in length and 90 minutes. Cost of $10 per person. Book a tour at 760-367-5522.
MISCELLANEOUS NOTES
The area’s namesake is the Joshua tree, which isn’t technically a tree, but a member of the agave family. The plant was first named by Mormon trekkers who said the outstretched limbs reminded them of Joshua reaching his hands to the sky in prayer. It is easy to find anthropomorphic shapes in their crooked trunks and misshapen tufts, and driving through expanses of them can feel a bit like wandering into a Dr. Seuss forest. The park is split into two distinct desert ecosystems.
The western portion of the park is occupied by the Mojave Desert, and that’s where you’ll find Joshua trees, teetering stacks of sand colored boulders and the occasional rattlesnake. The Mojave is known as the high desert with elevations above 3,000 feet. In the eastern half of the park you’ll find the Colorado Desert, a flatter ecosystem below 3,000 feet that is known for milder weather and blossoming vibrant wild flowers in March and April.
The entire park is larger than Rhode Island, and you could fill up an entire week hiking every trail and climbing every rock. But these days a trip to Joshua Tree also means chasing art, music, food, and the occasional sound bath through the towns of Yucca Valley, Pioneertown, and 29 Palms.
Compared with Palm Springs, Joshua Tree and its environs evoke the brawny self reliance of the Old West, and combined with the epic landscape, those qualities have attracted a new generation of artists and dreamers to the high desert.
WHERE TO STAY
1. Pioneertown Motel—is popular with the LA and San Diego crowds on the weekends. Situated just behind Pappy + Harriet’s, it’s the perfect place to roll into bed after a rowdy night in Pioneertown’s greatest bar. No phones, no TVs,
2. Mojave Sands—is the most zen like hotel in the area with 3 classic rooms and 2 suites, each with a full kitchen, and one with an outdoor shower and tub.
3. Airbnb—Wakanda Ranch, The High Desert House. Architecture fans might want to look into Pretty Vacant Properties (email [email protected]) two unique desert homes designed by Robert Stone.
4. Mid range and budget hotels can be found in Twentynine Palms. Mid range would be Fairfield Inn and Suites, Holiday Inn Express Hotel and Suites, Best Western Gardens Hotel. Budget hotels would be Rodeway Inn and Suites, and the 9 Palms Inn.
PLACES TO EAT
Yucca Valley:
Kimi Grill—Japanese Food
Asian Buffet—Chinese Buffet
Las Palmas—Mexican
La Copine—desert chic restaurant, unique menu, make reservations
Joshua Tree:
Park Rock Café (next to visitor’s center)
Joshua Tree Farmer’s Market on Saturdays for local dates, citrus, honey, vegetables
Natural Sister-- Good Health Food
Crossroads Café and Tavern: Homemade food, good breakfast
Joshua Tree Saloon (Food, bar, bands/karaoke)
Pie for the People—Great Pizza
Royal Siam Cuisine—Thai food
Sam’s Indian Food
Pioneertown:
Pappy & Harriet’s—Great casual dining and bands on some evenings. Steaks, burgers, dogs, and Tex Mex for lunch and dinner Thursday through Sunday. Mondays are open mic night with dinner service only. Dinner reservations recommended on Friday and Saturday night.
VISITOR CENTERS
Cottonwood Visitor Center—Coming from Tucson enter at south entrance. Mastadon Loop Trail is nearby.
Oasis Visitor Center—Enter the park from the North.
Joshua Tree Visitor Center—Enter the park from the West.
THINGS TO DO
Noah Purifoy Outdoor Museum: If you like outdoor earthy art this outdoor art museum is just about 10 minutes from Joshua Tree Visitor Center. http://noahpurifoy.com
Pioneertown: 10 miles from Joshua Tree Visitor Center. Developed by Roy Rogers as a Wild West film set in the 1940s, more than 50 westerns were filmed here. The Old West facades are fun to explore and next door is the famous Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace which is both a great restaurant and a world class music venue. Paul McCartney, Future Islands, Robert Plant and more have performed on this tiny saloon stage. http://pappyandharriets.com
Big Morongo Canyon Preserve: 20-30 minutes away in Morongo Valley
http://bigmorongo.org
Skys the Limit Observatory and Nature Center: Every Saturday night at 10 pm with the exception of weekends on or near a full moon astronomers set up telescopes outside the observatory and invite the public to get up close and personal with the night sky for desert stargazing.
Crochet Museum: The museum is free and open 24/7 so visitors can stop by anytime. It is a lime green one hour photo booth repurposed to house a collection of hundreds of crochet stuffed animals. (Only in Joshua Tree!)
Sound Baths: If you want to fully immerse yourself in Joshua Tree’s quirky side book at Sound Bath at the Integratron. Billed as 60 minute sonic healings, visitors recline in the dome shaped wooden room and are bathed in the smell of burning palo santo and the harmonic sounds of quartz crystal bowls. The two story bright white dome was designed by a UFOlogist named George Van Tassel who claimed to receive his instructions via extraterrestrials from the planet, Venus. Decades after Van Tassel died, the Integratron was purchased by three sisters who declared the all wood interior acoustically perfect and began hosting Sound Baths in the early 2000s. If it sounds far out, it is. Today you can choose between private or public Sound Baths. Spots book up months in advance.
Key’s Ranch Guide Walking Tour: Listed as a National Historic Register Site the property is located in a remote rocky Canyon in Joshua Tree National Park. To preserve its historic character admission to the ranch is restricted to guided walking tours, half mile in length and 90 minutes. Cost of $10 per person. Book a tour at 760-367-5522.
MISCELLANEOUS NOTES
The area’s namesake is the Joshua tree, which isn’t technically a tree, but a member of the agave family. The plant was first named by Mormon trekkers who said the outstretched limbs reminded them of Joshua reaching his hands to the sky in prayer. It is easy to find anthropomorphic shapes in their crooked trunks and misshapen tufts, and driving through expanses of them can feel a bit like wandering into a Dr. Seuss forest. The park is split into two distinct desert ecosystems.
The western portion of the park is occupied by the Mojave Desert, and that’s where you’ll find Joshua trees, teetering stacks of sand colored boulders and the occasional rattlesnake. The Mojave is known as the high desert with elevations above 3,000 feet. In the eastern half of the park you’ll find the Colorado Desert, a flatter ecosystem below 3,000 feet that is known for milder weather and blossoming vibrant wild flowers in March and April.
The entire park is larger than Rhode Island, and you could fill up an entire week hiking every trail and climbing every rock. But these days a trip to Joshua Tree also means chasing art, music, food, and the occasional sound bath through the towns of Yucca Valley, Pioneertown, and 29 Palms.
Compared with Palm Springs, Joshua Tree and its environs evoke the brawny self reliance of the Old West, and combined with the epic landscape, those qualities have attracted a new generation of artists and dreamers to the high desert.